The very first time I visited Iran, it didn’t take long until I saw myself in the middle of the biggest soccer match in Tehran eating sunflower seeds with my main man Navid. That day was maybe one of the most surreal experiences I’ve had, and I can dig the fact that some real, game-time stadium snacks were heavily involved. Snacks and surrealism – that’s an ill combo right there.
Of course, on my trip back to Tehran there was no doubt about who I had to hit up. Navid is – apart from being family – my key as an outsider to the nocturnal Tehran. A Tehran were the blocks gets hot with sizzling activity as the clock close in on the late hours of the night.
Do you like lamb brain?
Me and Navid were sitting in his dad’s car together with our wives, swerving in and out of lanes across the countless highways of the city. We had talked about anything but food, and the look on his face as he asked that question made it clear that we had gone way too long without touching the subject.
Little did I know, as it was confirmed to me later, that the previous 15 minutes spoken in Farsi was actually all about where we were going to eat. Go figure.
Pedar Khande A.K.A. the Godfathers of Sandwiches
As we pulled up on Pedar Khande, I saw a whole block filled with sandwich shops and hordes of young men with mod haircuts and tracksuits, hanging around their parked cars waiting for subs. Perfect scenery.
Being there, surrounded by the cohort of regulars and the spectrum of north Tehran residents – made my lamb brain/lamb tongue sandwich taste even more deliciously crazy. Or crazy delicious.
Here’s the deal: Pedar Khande is only to be visited during the night, and its food only be eaten outside the shop. Be sure to take in the atmosphere while you eat, and finish off riding away in the night.
Thank you Navid.